The Fascinating Tale of Andy Warhol and His Unique Loafers

Years ago, I had the pleasure of dining with Olga Berluti in Paris. An ancestor of hers, Alessandro Berluti, founded the prestigious shoemaking business in 1895. Now, a century later, she was at the creative helm. During our conversation, she requested to see my feet. With some embarrassment, I took off my shoes (not Berluti, regrettably) and sat there as this esteemed Italian artisan examined my size 12 feet. To my surprise, she found them strong and expressed her approval.

Among her noteworthy clients was the legendary Andy Warhol, for whom she crafted her very first pair of shoes. At the time, she was working at the Berluti store on Rue Marbeuf in Paris when Warhol, complete with his signature silver wig, visited with fellow customers Karl Lagerfeld and Yves Saint Laurent.

Warhol presented her with a sketch of a desired design, and Olga took the initiative to interpret the concept herself. She set out to create a pair of loafers featuring a sleek silhouette and a square toe. This was a pivotal moment, as her relative Talbinio Berluti was uninterested in fulfilling the order due to Warhol not leaving a deposit, thus giving Olga the opportunity to work on her inaugural commission.

However, she encountered an issue when she discovered that one of the leather hides she intended to use bore a scratch, likely caused by the animal brushing against barbed wire. Despite her best efforts, she was unable to hide the flaw.

Feeling embarrassed, Olga informed Warhol that his shoes had not been produced. When he expressed displeasure, she confessed the problem, displayed the loafers to him, and was astonished to find that he was actually pleased. It has since become a part of Berluti lore that she humorously attributed the flaw to a “subversive cow,” prompting Warhol to declare, “From now on, I only want shoes made from the hides of subversive cows.”

Warhol became a regular client at Berluti, and Olga subsequently designed numerous styles for him. However, the original loafer, named the Andy, has remained a staple in the collection, celebrated for its modern aesthetics even five decades after its inception in 1962. The artist admired Olga and even gifted her signed Polaroids, one of which hung in the Rue Marbeuf store for many years and is currently housed in the Berluti archive.

Now at 85 years old and retired, Olga’s legacy in the Berluti saga highlights the craftsmanship that has attracted influential figures since the late 1800s, including Charles de Gaulle, John F. Kennedy, and Pablo Picasso.

Of all her prominent clients, Warhol seems to have left the most significant mark on Berlin. The Andy loafer has seen various adaptations over time. While the classic style remains available in original colors such as black/grey Nero Grigio and brown Cacao Intenso, an updated Alto version features a rubber midsole wrapped in Venezia leather and a 3D strap created using advanced molding techniques—melding contemporary technology with artisanal design.

This unique patina represents a hallmark of Berluti, developed by Olga herself. She is said to have concocted exclusive creams for the finishing touch and has even utilized champagne to enhance the luster of the leather, ensuring Berluti products are known for their rich sheen and diverse colors.

Berluti’s distinct finishing techniques extend to other leather goods beyond footwear. A notable item is the Andy Crossbody Leather Messenger bag, designed as a tribute to the iconic loafer, featuring design elements like embedded piping and hand stitching. This versatile bag can serve as a briefcase or crossbody option, and its calf leather lining is capable of accommodating a laptop.

Although we may never know if Warhol would have opted for a coordinating bag, there’s no doubt he would have been intrigued if it were crafted from the hide of a subversive cow.